If you’ve ever slurped down a bowl of the iconic Michelin-recommended Air Itam Sisters Curry Mee, you’d know it wasn’t just about the rich, spicy broth but also two sweet aunties behind the stall who served it with a smile.
But now, a familiar face is no longer there.
Mdm Lim Kooi Lai, the younger of the two sisters behind the legendary Penang stall, passed away peacefully on Friday (20 June) at the age of 91, leaving behind generations of fans and memories.
Warmth in a bowl
The news was announced by Air Itam state assemblyman Joseph Ng Soon Siang, who took to Facebook to express his condolences.
She always greeted us with warmth and a smile. Every bowl of curry mee she cooked wasn’t just a meal, but a reminder of Penang’s heart and soul.”
Locals who grew up eating at the stall shared similar sentiments, with many describing her passing as the end of an era.
Peaceful till the end
Her granddaughter, Wong Mei Mei (transliteration), told Sin Chew Daily that Mdm Lim had felt slightly unwell around noon and was taken to the hospital.
Doctors found signs of heart weakness. She returned home to rest and passed away peacefully at 7.57 pm that evening.
There were no signs. She was quiet and gentle by nature,” said Wong.
Two months earlier, Mdm Lim had suffered a fall that left her legs weak, but she remained alert and could eat as usual.
Curry mee sisters for life
Mdm Lim spent nearly her entire life with her 93-year-old elder sister, Mdm Lim Kooi Heang, by her side.
The duo had been inseparable since childhood, from helping their mother sell noodles as teens to running one of Penang’s most iconic hawker stalls.
She carried the yoke, I rode the bike,” recalled Mdm Lim Kooi Heang. “We started at 5 am and often worked till midnight.”
The Air Itam Sisters Curry Mee stall was started in 1946 by their mother. For decades, the two sisters poured their hearts into every bowl.
They never married but instead adopted a daughter, Chio Soh Lian (transliteration), who grew up helping out at the stall.
Chio later had four daughters of her own, giving the sisters seven great-grandchildren.
A Michelin-worthy legacy
The stall earned a spot in the Michelin Guide, attracting both tourists and loyal locals with its traditional Siamese-style curry mee.
Around 10 years ago, the sisters handed the stall over to their granddaughter and her husband.
But even after retirement, they would still stop by occasionally, just to catch up with long-time customers or lend a helping hand.
They were strict about one thing: the freshness. Every ingredient had to be prepped fresh daily, no compromises,” said their granddaughter.
Mdm Lim’s wake is being held at her home on Jalan Ong Yu Cheng, Kepala Batas. She will be laid to rest on Tuesday (24 June) at the Padang Sintar Chinese Cemetery in North Seberang Perai.
Though she’s gone, her spirit lives on in every bowl of curry mee still served at the stall she helped build from the ground up.
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